I had a good chat with Jim, who is an oceanographer, about my route for the day. I was a bit apprehensive of the headlands around Brest so it was reassuring to hear they aren’t too bad.

I decided to change things up and leave in the morning. Although I’d be paddling against the tide, it’s neaps so very little flow.

Jim dropped me back at Curnic and I packed up my boat with an audience of fishermen parked up on the slipway. It felt a little chillier, September here. I paddled out to the Île Vierge lighthouse, apparently the tallest stone lighthouse in Europe!

I had some nice swell behind me and it was exciting to see the land drop away, nothing on the horizon to the west. I watched my compass slowly rotate southerly and as I turned the corner of Brittany it felt like a whole new adventure was just beginning. I dreamt about what lay ahead and then lost myself in the flow of downwind.

The wind began to blow off the land so I hugged the rugged cliffs. The water was crystal clear below me, sandy patches turquoise in the sun and rocks glowing ghostly.

It would’ve made sense to stop but it was important for me to get around Pointe Saint Mathieu, as I had built this headland up in my head somewhat. As it happened, the waters were calm but I can imagine it becomes wild when the wind blows from the south west.

After six and a half hours on the water I then had the hardest 5km, a slog against a fierce headwind to a safe get out, in a beautiful bay at Plougonvelin. My longest day at 7.5 hours. I will probably explore the Presqu’île de Crozon for the next couple of days and then cross the Pointe du Raz when the wind dies on Saturday.