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Day 70: Ostia to Rio Martino

I’m lying on a sandy beach, the setting sun on my back. Yesterday I was in Rome, but that already feels like a week ago. That’s what travel does for me, stretches days to feel like weeks. Not when I’m living them, just when I look back at them. Rich experiences make each day it’s own vintage.

It was good to stop in Rome for a few days. I won’t pretend I feel rested, but sometimes it can feel like the repetition of paddle, eat, sleep is getting out of control, like I can’t make it stop, and Rome was certainly a reset.

Walking through a city for the first time, when everything is new to the eyes, is always wonderful, but walking in to St Peters or stumbling upon the Colosseum was something else. The history and beauty of Rome was amazing, even a forgotten basilica was ordained with breathtaking frescoes and even the most humble piazza had at its centre some ornate sculpture.

It was such a privilege to have a comfortable bed to come back to after a day of wandering in the hot and busy streets. Silvio, I can’t thank you enough.

One day I met with Emilio (who I stayed with in Ladispoli) and Silvio at the Tirrenia Torado canoe club and we took a k4 (4 person kayak) out for a tour of Rome on the Tiber, getting the best view of Castel Sant’Angelo and paddling under a bridge designed by Bernini, built in 134AD.

After a swim in the Tiber I was treated to lunch in a restaurant on the river bank with some other paddlers. Indeed, I’ve eaten like a Roman the last few days which has made diabetes management tricky (but worth it!). I knew I’d need more insulin as I wasn’t paddling, but one day I injected 40 units of levemir and was still high all day. Considering I’ve been injecting just 5 units maximum when paddling, this increase seems disproportionate. At least I’ll know for next time I have a rest.

Returning to Gianni and Betty’s cottage in Ostia was like returning home, and it was lovely to have a swim and feel the sea breeze. It’s been 38 degrees the last few days and my body has started to accept it’s just always going to be hot and sweaty. We had the same delicious pizza for dinner and I went for a tour of Ostia with Mauro, including a visit to see his goats.

Gianni and Betty have done over 90 open sea crossings in their surfskis, including island hopping from Ostia to Tunisia.

Wednesday 29th

For the first time on this trip, I had paddlers joining me for the whole day – 40kms to Anzio – with Mauro and Marco in one double and Gianni and Betty in another. I was looking forward to a good downwind but a swell was coming from over our right shoulders, canceling out the waves heading in the right direction. You had to work to catch the waves, and I wasn’t sure if the free ride was worth the effort. That’s a calculation you have to make.

It was still nice to paddle with a group, and we made the distance in good time.The conditions for the last few Kms past the castle in to Anzio were perfect, and once I’d said goodbye to the others, I decided to make use of the conditions and carry on for another 25km. Everyone I’ve met in the last week has been so welcoming and generous to me, and I’m very grateful, so thank you.

Fort at Anzio

Diabetes

Although my levels were high after the pizza, I decided not to inject any insulin at all on the morning of the paddle. I still had lots in my system from the night, and feared I’d drop low and hold everyone up on the paddle. This was a good decision – I dropped from 13 to 6 on the paddle and remained stable, not needing to inject any for the night either. It’s amazing how insulin sensitive paddling makes me.

As you can see from the data, my sensor is still a bit dodgy. It took 5 days just to calibrate, and now the data is jumping around (I wasn’t actually low all night). The sensor filament probably has some dirt on it or is in a muscle. It only has 3 days left and then I’ll insert a new one.


7 responses to “Day 70: Ostia to Rio Martino”

  1. Peter Mortimer avatar

    Reading you, Dougal, it was like being back in Rome! Isn’t it a fantastic city? And you swam in the Tiber?!… They must have cleaned it up a lot since I was last there 😉
    Keep the posts coming; it’s a pleasure staying up to date with all you do. All the best, Peter

    1. glaisherdougal avatar
      glaisherdougal

      Hi Peter, yes, I loved Rome. The paddlers said the Tiber doesn’t deserve it’s bad rep!

  2. Sebag avatar
    Sebag

    Hi Dougal, what an amazing time you are having. I really admire your attitude and courage. Keep on paddling and take care. Love Sebag x

    1. glaisherdougal avatar
      glaisherdougal

      Thanks Sebag x

  3.  avatar
    Anonymous

    È’ stato molto bello averti con noi. Buona viaggio Giovane

  4. Michael Butler avatar
    Michael Butler

    Wow, Dougal, you are having a great time. Your Day 70 blog makes a wonderful and joyous read. Thank you for the entertainment value! GP

    1. glaisherdougal avatar
      glaisherdougal

      Thanks Grandpa, glad to hear it X

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