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Ile Saint Honorat is only 1.5km long and 400 metres wide. Incredibly it has been home to a monastic community since the year 410, when Saint Honoratus settled there. Today 30 Cistercian monks live in the monastery and produce wine from the vineyards of the island. I walked around this peaceful, beautiful place and thought about life as a monk.
A sign read ‘Monks seem to look joyful, what is the secret?’ The answer: ‘When our actions and beliefs are in harmony with our values and community life, we feel deep joy. A simple heart, that does not wallow in sadness, gives us that deep joy.’
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I did some stretching and then went for a swim in an attempt to cool off before I started paddling in the hot sun. Through the crystal clear water, I could see a carpet of seagrass gently waving in the current and the silver flashes of fish. Between the two Lerins islands the sea was a mosaic of blues and as always, I tried to appreciate this beauty, knowing it’s only a moment in time.
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Across the bay to Nice I paddled, aeroplanes taking off and landing at the airport in an unbroken cycle. This is just one airport, it is scary to think of the sheer volume of air traffic worldwide.
I arrived in the port of Nice and came ashore at a big watersports centre. There were racks of kayaks everywhere so I didn’t see any harm in leaving mine there too. After a shower, I sat on a wall and devoured a whole chicken from a rotisserie with a whole loaf of bread. My body was craving some meat and I don’t think I’ve been getting enough protein, hence the onset of sore muscles and an achy back the last few days.
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I looked around the port, gawping at a ridiculously big superyacht, Mimtee. Looking it up, this 79-metre monster is worth $US 100 million and is owned by Najib Mikati, corrupt Prime Minister of Lebanon, who was named in the recent Pandora leaks.
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Walking the narrow streets of Nice’s old town felt like stepping onto a Wes Anderson set, the buildings pastel reds and yellow, the shutters green.
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Whatever I’m doing, I always ask myself ‘Is there more to life than this?’. I wish I could be content but I can’t help but search for more. More what? Well, more of whatever makes me feel satisfied and content with life. One day I hope I can say ‘no, there is no more to life than this’, and I will be content.
Adventure is centred on experience – creating exciting and memorable stories, seeing the world, meeting people and learning from them, seeing what makes them content. Also the emotions of an adventure – fear, awe, loneliness, elation and more.
As I wandered the streets of Nice, I had doubts. I thought this adventure has no meaning, these experiences no depth. I felt lost and disheartened. I questioned why I’m travelling.
I held on to these thoughts and the emotions that came with them. From such thoughts, profundity comes, though not with ease. I analysed, rationalised and hashed them. I disappeared down a beautiful rabbit warren of thoughts. I phoned a friend and debated them. Soon I lost ownership of these thoughts, and they became concepts. If I don’t process such thoughts, but carry on with life blindly, the thoughts go to storage in the back of my head and I’m left confused and muddled. Instead, I seek clarity. I’ve been working through a backlog of such stored thoughts on my trip.
I wrote down my thoughts, and reading them back clearly saw how wrong I was. My faith in the power of adventure to make me content is restored. When fatigued from paddling, it’s important for me to remember to look for the small things. I had made massive oversimplifications and jumped to negative conclusions.
Back at the watersports centre I sat and chatted to some divers. I was too polite to say no, so ate bread, cheese and salami and drank wine with them, despite feeling absolutely bursting after my chicken. At midnight we said goodbye and I vowed to return and drink a bottle of wine they’d placed on the sea bed to become encrusted in barnacles and shells.
I slept in the changing rooms but had high sugars all night after my chicken feast, so woke feeling like I’d been trampled by a herd of cattle. I need to eat a lot to replenish the energy I’m expending but I’m finding it difficult to cover this with the appropriate dose of insulin.
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