Today I reached the highest point of the canal, the Seuil de Naurouze, at 190 metres above sea level. It’s cool to think that water splits here, some flowing to the Med, some to the Atlantic. I have portaged up over about 80 locks, and now for the next 70 I will be going downhill. This isn’t just a morale boost, there’s also about 2 km/h of current leaking through the locks gates that I will no longer have to fight against.

I set Castelenaudry as my target for lunch, but was getting hungry by 2 pm when the town was still 10kms away. I was delighted then, when at a lock I saw a fig tree drooping with ripe fruit. I gorged on juicy figs until my lips began to blister, which I later read is caused by ficin, a proteolytic enzyme in figs.

The sound of trumpets blew across from a music school to the canal as I arrived in Castelenaudry. I sat on the steps of a monument looking over the canal and ate a loaf of bread with duck pate. I also mixed things up with a Moroccan pastry – a cornes de gazelle. Filled with spiced ground almond, the nutmeg and cinnamon gave quite a kick. It left me wanting more.

I pushed on for another hour with a lovely tailwind to reach Ecluse la Criminelle. The weather has been great for my whole trip, except for in Bordeaux and Toulouse. Long may it continue!