I woke before light and had everything packed to leave at 8 am, timing my day to paddle up the Gironde with the tide.

Out at sea, there was a rolling swell but no white horses. The swell was then slamming down in a defined line on a sand bank about 100 metres off the beach. I stood watching and deliberating for an hour. I decided there wasn’t enough time between waves to break free, especially in my fully laden boat. I was also worried about what lay ahead, would I be able to get back on to the beach?

Its a difficult decision to stay on the beach. Where does courage lie between cowardice and foolhardiness? What should take precedence, courage or humility? What takes more courage, battling the ocean, or admitting defeat? These are the questions I asked myself.

I began the gruelling task of hauling my boat down the beach. The trolley wheels sank into the soft sand and progress was painfully slow. When the handle began to blister my hands, I pulled with a rope over my shoulder, imagining what polar explorers must go through to heave their sledges.

I had some respite when for a few kilometres I paddled along the shore in the surf. This was much more fun, dodging waves and getting smashed by a few. I reached the Phare de la Coubre and the sand bank disappeared making the waves dump on the shore. Back to hauling.

The Côte Sauvage really lives up to its name – ‘wild coast’. The shore is littered with driftwood from storms gone by, the air filled with a salty mist. Plastic rubbish was washed up too, bottles, shoes, oil drums and cigarette lighters, rotting and slowly being buried by sand.

10km and 5 hours later, I reached the end of the Côte Sauvage where a spit curls into the Gironde estuary. I was pleased to find shelter to finally get paddling. Downwind was my reward and I savoured it, knowing it will be my last for a while. If you haven’t read the last blog, I’ve decided to continue my journey by heading to the Mediterranean on the rivers and canals across France.

It was great to arrive at Royan knowing I was meeting Paul, also a paddler. More on that tomorrow!