On the water paddling by 8:30, early by my recent standards, a mission on my mind – get around the Karaburun peninsula and to a source of water and food.

I felt a bit anxious about this bit, it was going to be a quite a big day and the last 10kms are continuous sharp rocky cliffs, meaning there’s no possibility to come ashore.

The weather has been great for the last two weeks, save for that one stormy day on Corfu – that’s been the only rain so far. It’s actually been annoying to lug around my cold weather kit and I didn’t pack any paddling shorts, thinking it’d be too cold for them, so I’ve been using normal shorts, and have abrasions all over my bum and legs as a result.

Indeed I did feel isolated as I rounded the westernmost point of Albania, but the seas were calm and I appreciated the wild, rugged beauty of the land, hundreds of bunkers the only sign of man.

I heard a tinkle of bells and saw a line of goats. I barked at the dogs, taunting them with some cockiness now water separated us..

Heading south again a new scene opened up, the city of Vlorë and the flat river deltas to my east, the mountains to my right less barren.

Feeling ravenous, I stopped at a deserted restaurant and cooked up some pasta. Two kittens appeared, malnourished and meowing, and I tossed them some spaghetti, feeling wretched for not sharing more, greedily hogging it to myself. The kittens fought over the pasta, and I wondered what would happen to them. Life is cruel.

Carrying on, I passed dozens of fish farms and accidently entered a military area, only realising it when I came ashore near a gatepost, and the guard approached me, rifle slung over his shoulder.

The coast is built up from here to Vlorë and I was unsure where to camp. I came ashore near the hotel Alba Gert and met Dimitry and his wife, who gave me some tangerines and assured me Albania is safe. I believe him, because it feels it. Of course there are bad people in every country, but I haven’t met one in Albania yet – everyone has been lovely and friendly. Never listen to the naysayers and always question stereotypes!

Today (26th October), I walked in to the village of Orikum for some much needed food (lots of fruit and a spicy lamb pastry). I ended up spending the day writing using the hotels WiFi and bought two coffees to justify it. Caffeine lightweight that I am, this reduced me to a blurry eyed, twitchy legged, heart pounding, anxious mess. No jokes, I thought perhaps I was having an allergic reaction to the persimmons I’d eaten. I’m staying off the coffee for now!