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Day 18: Batz-sur-Mer to Barbâtre
I pitched my tent under the shelter of the sailing club and slept fitfully, dreaming of my boat floating off the beach and out to sea. The morning slipped away and it was 1 pm by the time I left. I was apprehensive about getting back out through the dumpy surf but by low tide,…
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Day 17: Arzon to Batz-sur-Mer
I woke up to find my phone had died. I could’ve faffed away the day trying to sort things out but instead just got on the water to paddle away my frustration. I cut across the bay and swell built, coming from my right-hand side. Waves put me in a state of flow where my…
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Day 16: Île petit Logoden to Arazon
I’m afraid a failed waterproof case has killed my phone so until I get a replacement I’m writing from cyber cafes and there won’t be any photos. After the thunderstorm had passed, I dozed a little but awoke feeling tired. The day was calm and I floated in the still waters to wake myself up.…
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Day 15: Étel to Île Petit Logoden
I had a productive morning of writing and route planning. Eric told me about the Gulf of Morbihan, a natural harbour with about 40 islands. It sounded like a place I couldn’t miss so I set it as my goal for the day. I left Étel with recharged batteries (in both senses of the phrase),…
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Day 14: Le Pouldu to Étel
The day dawned bright again and I enjoyed a relaxed morning. Benoît and Angie joined me on the water and we paddled out of Le Pouldu at midday. A light headwind blew as we followed the rocky shore, but it was a pleasure to have some company. We left the Finistere department and entered Morbihan.…
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Day 13: Port de Trévignon to Le Pouldu
I awoke at 9 and was surprised to see a market had been set up, practically around my tent. The stall keepers looked at me curiously as I poked my head out and an old man muttered disapprovingly. After living off little else but porridge for the last couple of days, I was delighted. The…
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Day 12: Penmarch to Port de Trévignon
Not every day is super exciting. Paddling by yourself for 5 hours on a flat, seemingly lifeless sea can actually be fairly dull. So much so that of course I ask myself ‘what am I doing?’ The answer to that question is that it is not just about things happening. That very monotony is part…
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Day 11: Plage de la Baie des Trépassés to Penmarch
It was already getting hot when I left at 10.30. I didn’t want to wait until 3 pm for the tide to turn and it was only a small current so I paddled against it. The water was flowing like a river around the Pointe du Raz and I had fun playing on a little…
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Day 10: Plougonvelin to Plage de la Baie des Trépassés
I slept on a patch of sandy grass under a cluster of cedar trees by the beach. The wind blew all night long and was still blowing when I woke in the morning. I walked in to the sleepy village centre for food. People looked at me suspiciously, holding their gaze for a couple of…
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Day 9: Guisseny to Plougonvelin
I had a good chat with Jim, who is an oceanographer, about my route for the day. I was a bit apprehensive of the headlands around Brest so it was reassuring to hear they aren’t too bad. I decided to change things up and leave in the morning. Although I’d be paddling against the tide,…