I had a great evening with Paul at his home in Royan. All of the home comforts are a joy after camping, but what I really like about staying with people is getting to chat. I heard about some of Paul’s travels and paddling adventures and he shared some useful tips for the next part of my journey. Thanks Paul!

We left Royan at 9 am and paddled up the side of the Gironde away from the flow. I clocked a much faster first hour than if I’d been alone and actually felt good after yesterday’s exertions.

Some downwind built as the tide began to push against the flow and I carried on alone, crossing to the other side of the estuary. The water became a muddy brown and my hands and feet pruney, perhaps due to the fresh water?

I’m now going up the river and it definitely feels like a new chapter. I reflected on the last 3 weeks as the tide pushed me along. It feels like I started my adventure far longer than 3 weeks ago. So much has happened. I remember 3 weeks at school, university and work used to fly by. Routine is a time killer.

Looking back the highlights have been the beautiful islands – Îles Chausey, Île-de-Bréhat, the Gulf of Morbihan and Île de Re, the downwinds, the sunsets, and all of the amazing people I’ve met along the way. More than any highlight however, is the true feeling of adventure I’ve been given. This isn’t a trip, it’s just me living life as I think my life should be lived.

The banks of the river were leafy green, vineyards on the hills beyond, the odd chateau visible. Wooden fishing huts known as carrelets stood on stilts in the mud, their nets out of the water. Used to catch shrimp, I think they would look just as at home in Indonesia.

The day went quickly, but I was feeling hungry when I arrived in Pauillac, a busy town with a cool vibe. I left my boat by the harbour office, ate loads of food and lay on a bench feeling sick. Tomorrow I’ll head for Bordeaux when I’ve worked out how to get in my boat through the disgusting river mud at low tide!