Month: September 2021
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Day 24: Royan to Pauillac
I had a great evening with Paul at his home in Royan. All of the home comforts are a joy after camping, but what I really like about staying with people is getting to chat. I heard about some of Paul’s travels and paddling adventures and he shared some useful tips for the next part…
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Day 23: Côte Sauvage to Royan
I woke before light and had everything packed to leave at 8 am, timing my day to paddle up the Gironde with the tide. Out at sea, there was a rolling swell but no white horses. The swell was then slamming down in a defined line on a sand bank about 100 metres off the…
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Day 22: Saint-Marie-de-Re (Île de Re) to Côte Sauvage
I felt pretty exhausted so had a relaxed rest day on Île de Re. I went for a cycle ride and successfully got lost trying to find my way back home. The white gravel tracks and tiny roads are lovely to cycle on, but rather disorientating! We had a very special seafood supper to celebrate…
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Day 21: Plage de Saint-Denis d’Oléron (Île de Re) to Saint-Marie-de-Re (Île de Re)
I departed at 9 am and hugged the shore, seeking what little shelter the low lying island provides from a crosswind. Great memories flooded back as I paddled along. It feels like a dream ago that I stayed on Île de Re, yet it also seems as clear as yesterday. I was lucky enough to…
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Day 20: Les Sables-d’Olonne to Plage de Saint-Denis d’Oléron (Île de Re)
I lay cocooned in my sleeping bag, the morning sun making me sweat into my already sticky clothes. Days of the week don’t matter to me, but I could tell it was a Sunday morning from the sound of trainers pounding the promenade. I walked to the boulangerie and bought a thick wedge of apricot…
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Day 19: Barbâtre to Les Sables d’Olonne
I left Brittany behind me a couple of days ago and it really feels like I’m in a different country now. The shoreline has changed, sand dunes stretching into the distance now. Towns are nestled in pine forests, church spires and water towers giving away their location. The water is bath like and the air…
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Day 18: Batz-sur-Mer to Barbâtre
I pitched my tent under the shelter of the sailing club and slept fitfully, dreaming of my boat floating off the beach and out to sea. The morning slipped away and it was 1 pm by the time I left. I was apprehensive about getting back out through the dumpy surf but by low tide,…
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Day 17: Arzon to Batz-sur-Mer
I woke up to find my phone had died. I could’ve faffed away the day trying to sort things out but instead just got on the water to paddle away my frustration. I cut across the bay and swell built, coming from my right-hand side. Waves put me in a state of flow where my…
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Day 16: Île petit Logoden to Arazon
I’m afraid a failed waterproof case has killed my phone so until I get a replacement I’m writing from cyber cafes and there won’t be any photos. After the thunderstorm had passed, I dozed a little but awoke feeling tired. The day was calm and I floated in the still waters to wake myself up.…
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Day 15: Étel to Île Petit Logoden
I had a productive morning of writing and route planning. Eric told me about the Gulf of Morbihan, a natural harbour with about 40 islands. It sounded like a place I couldn’t miss so I set it as my goal for the day. I left Étel with recharged batteries (in both senses of the phrase),…